Sculpting the senses

Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, known for dressing celebrities such as Beyoncé and Lady Gaga, presented a unique fusion of fashion and art. The Hybrid Show installation broke traditional runway norms by presenting the models as living sculptures, emerging from elevated platforms reminiscent of medieval statues.

The show highlighted Van Herpen’s innovative use of tulle, creating aerial sculptures that blended paint, silk and 3D printed elements into ethereal, swirling forms. Suspended above the stage, these pieces captured the essence of movement and transformation. Van Herpen expressed her desire to move beyond body-centred designs and explore new dimensions in her artistic journey.

The collection itself was a testament to Van Herpen’s sculptural approach to fashion. Models donned haute couture gowns that appeared to be extensions of the aerial sculptures, with intricate details such as rhythmic bursts of pearls, glass-encrusted organza and constructed lace fused with silk. The designs embodied a dialogue between static and animated forms, reflecting Van Herpen’s background in classical ballet and her fascination with movement.

Van Herpen’s process involves draping fabric directly onto mannequins, a method she likens to sculpture. This technique allows her to create three-dimensional, wearable works of art that challenge conventional fashion boundaries. The installation also featured four large-scale aerial sculptures, each of which took up to four months to create, showcasing the designer’s meticulous craftsmanship.

Hybrid Show was inspired by Van Herpen’s recent retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, where she reflected on her 16-year career. This introspection led her to explore new artistic impulses, bridging the gap between fashion and the visual arts. The immersive experience of the installation lasted 45 minutes, allowing the audience to fully appreciate the intricate details and the interplay of light and form.

Van Herpen’s work continues to push the boundaries of haute couture, fusing art, science and fashion into a cohesive, visionary narrative. Her innovative use of materials and techniques highlights the potential for fashion to transcend traditional boundaries and become a form of artistic expression.