What if clothes could tell stories, not just keep up with trends? For Antonio Vattev, fashion is a bridge across eras, translating the rebellion of ’70s rock icons and the avant-garde into today’s world. Here Vattev talks about creating pieces with both substance and soul – clothing that goes beyond fashion and captures the energy of past subcultures, the thrill of self-expression, and his vision for a future where style is timeless, not disposable.
hube: In your opinion, what constitutes beauty in fashion? How do you navigate the subjective nature of beauty in your designs, and do you believe there is a universal element of beauty that transcends cultural and temporal boundaries?
Antonio Vattev: That’s a big question. Beauty in fashion, to me, is all about imagination – it’s the storytelling, the way you make people feel, and how you bring a smile to their faces. Beauty isn’t universal; everyone finds it differently. For me, beauty happens when a story I present gets people thinking, smiling, dreaming. Everything that makes me feel this way is beautiful.
h: Fashion is often seen as a reflection of its time, capturing the zeitgeist. How do you see your work contributing to or challenging the narrative of the current era? Do you aim to create pieces that are timeless or those that distinctly represent the present moment?
AV: I always ask myself this question at the beginning of a new collection. Today, with so many voices and influences, it’s hard to define what fashion or culture looks like. I draw inspiration from the past – how fashion elements defined eras. My goal is to introduce an element from the past but make it feel modern. It’s a fusion of timelessness with a touch of today, creating pieces that are relatable now and in the future.
h: Would it be important for you, personally, to be remembered as a timeless artist?
AV: Honestly, I don’t think about myself being remembered. It’s more about the clothes speaking for themselves. I want people to feel good wearing my clothes, now and in 10 or 15 years. This timeless magic is what I aim for, more than my own legacy.
h: How do you balance the practical aspects of wearability with the artistic and conceptual ambitions of your designs? Do you see a tension between fashion as a functional craft and fashion as an expressive art form?
AV: There’s a constant tension between practicality and artistic expression, especially in menswear. Over time, I’ve developed a structure where we start with a showpiece that expresses the core message, and then adapt elements into wearable designs. It’s about creating a world in each collection where every piece, from the statement to the practical, belongs together.
h: Memory and nostalgia seem to play significant roles in your collections, especially with references to past icons and eras. How do you view the role of memory in design? Is it about preserving the past, reinterpreting it, or something else entirely?
AV: Memory, to me, is a way of storytelling, not preservation. I’m inspired by things I haven’t experienced firsthand but have only read or dreamed about. It’s the feeling of the past that moves me, not a literal recreation. I enjoy translating that feeling into a collection, blending imagination and history to create something modern.
h: When you present your collections, do you see yourself more as an educator or as someone experiencing the collection with the audience?
AV: At first, I’m an observer, almost like the audience. But when I launch the collection, it’s about sharing what I’ve learned and felt. So, in a way, I take on an educator’s role.
h: Your work often feels very personal. How do your own experiences and background influence your designs?
AV: Growing up in Bulgaria and then moving to London shaped me. My tastes were influenced early on by music, thanks to my dad, and by art, which I immersed myself in while at Central Saint Martins. I spent so much time in the library, discovering artists and events randomly, letting those experiences form my own path.
h: Fashion often intersects with identity and expression. How do you view the relationship between fashion and individual identity? Do you see your designs as a form of personal or societal expression?
AV: My dream is for people to wear my clothes in their own way. I want the clothes to be a starting point for self-expression, not a complete identity. I love seeing how someone can take a piece of my world and make it their own.
h: If you could collaborate with anyone, dead or alive, who would it be?
AV: There are so many, but I’d say Mick Jagger and David Bowie – they each brought such personal energy to their art. Collaborating with artists who leave a mark on culture, and who make people feel something, is what I’d love.
h: Where do you see AV Vattev heading in the next few years? Are there any new directions or collaborations you’re excited about?
AV: I’m excited about the future, even though it’s a challenging time for young brands. I see big potential and hope to connect with wider audiences. Collaboration could be key to spreading our message and growing our community.
Photography courtesy of AV VATTEV
