Drawing inspiration from the rich cultural tapestry of Jiangnan, China, Ziggy Chen’s designs echo the beauty of Song dynasty art while embracing modern sensibilities, blending contemporary and traditional. His latest collection, GNARTRICATE, captures the themes of growth and decay through a sophisticated collage technique, incorporating elements of nature’s chaos and elegance. Through his thoughtful work, Chen reflects on his journey as a designer, his approach to preserving cultural heritage while pushing the boundaries of fashion, and his vision for the future of his brand.
hube: Your work beautifully blends traditional Chinese elements with modern fashion. Could you share a specific instance where a traditional motif inspired a contemporary design in your latest collections?
Ziggy Chen: Living in Shanghai, a modern metropolis surrounded by cities and villages rich in traditional culture like Suzhou and Hangzhou, which epitomise Jiangnan culture in China, I find daily life steeped in these influences – from cuisine and customs to the shapes of flora and the hues of architecture. As people mature, they often shift from admiring distant beauty to appreciating the overlooked splendour around them. In our latest collection, ancient trees from traditional gardens serve as raw material, their timeless beauty reimagined into patterns for the new season. These designs draw inspiration from the expressive forms and intricate details found in traditional Song dynasty paintings. Our aim isn’t to replicate tradition but to organically express it in harmony with contemporary lifestyles.
h: The 25SS collection, GNARTRICATE, highlights the intricate beauty found within nature’s chaos. How did traditional Song dynasty paintings inspire the collage technique used in your prints for this season, and how do these prints reflect GNARTRICATE’s themes of growth and decay?
ZC: Since the AW20 season, traditional Song dynasty paintings have fuelled our passion for developing print patterns, evolving continuously. Each print in this collection embodies the theme with intuitive complexity, akin to an essay’s exploration of tangled ideas. The collage technique allows us to layer and juxtapose different motifs, reflecting the chaotic yet harmonious interplay of growth and decay found in nature.
h: In GNARTRICATE, you explore the interplay of elegance and chaos. What is the key piece from this collection, such as a jacket or dress, and how does it embody the collection’s balance between beauty and decadence?
ZC: One standout piece is a jacket crafted from linen dyed in contrasting moss green and aged purple tones, evoking a sense of gradual decay. Twisted pocket lines and distorted hem stripes further capture the chaotic essence of the season. This piece epitomises the collection’s theme by balancing refined elegance with elements of disorder.
h: As a Chinese designer with a global presence, how do you see your role in influencing the international fashion landscape?
ZC: I view this role not as a quest for influence but as a journey towards personal growth and the refinement of a unique brand style. Each collection aims to connect with individuals worldwide who share our aesthetic values.
h: The concept of GNARTRICATE in your SS25 collection explores visible, disruptive branches symbolising growth and disorder. How did this theme influence the construction and detailing of your garments, and can you highlight a piece that best embodies this idea?
ZC: This season, our focus has been on subtle details that reflect natural chaos – twisted hems, intricate pocket designs, and softly curled brims. The deep olive green vest epitomises this approach, with vertical folds mimicking fleeting human movements and a rough, bark-like texture achieved through meticulous stitching.
Photography by TOMAS SMITH
Photography by TOMAS SMITH
Photography by TOMAS SMITH
h: In the SS25 collection, the faded colours and soft silhouettes evoke a sense of time and natural elegance. How did you approach the challenge of blending traditional architectural inspiration with modern, fluid designs to create this unique aesthetic?
ZC: Incorporating inspiration from Suzhou gardens and Song dynasty paintings, we emphasise flat surfaces – colours, textures and patterns – while simplifying intricate structures. Our colour palette, derived from aged materials and historical artworks, evolves over time, enriching our understanding of colour application in contemporary clothing.
h: If you could describe your design philosophy in three words, what would they be?
ZC: Effortless, timeless, tranquil.
h: Looking ahead, what innovations or changes in the fashion industry excite you the most? Do you have any intention of incorporating them into your artistic practice?
ZC: While I remain focused on our creative path, I’m open to innovations that align with our ethos of timeless elegance and comfort.
h: Your designs evoke strong emotions. How do you want people to feel when they wear your clothes?
ZC: Comfort is paramount. I aspire for wearers to feel at ease and connected, fostering a bond with their garments that transcends seasons.
h: How important is preserving cultural heritage in your designs, and how do you balance this responsibility with innovation?
ZC: I prioritise the essence of clothing over labels. Integrating traditional elements with modern lifestyles is a natural progression for me, rooted in experimentation and a deep cultural appreciation. This organic evolution informs our approach to design, ensuring relevance and respect for tradition in contemporary contexts.
