Tanner Leatherstein, a disruptor in the luxury leather world, isn’t afraid to dissect luxury handbags – literally. With his brand PEGAI and a growing social media following, he’s challenging the idea that a high price equals quality. Through his passion for transparency, Tanner reveals the hidden truths behind leather goods, inviting consumers to rethink what truly defines luxury. His journey is redefining not just how we see leather, but how we value craftsmanship.
hube: Your journey began with dissecting luxury handbags to understand their true value. What was the most surprising discovery you made during one of these dissections that changed your perspective on the luxury leather industry?
Tanner Leatherstein: The most important discovery I made is that many of these bags fall into two categories: ‘not worth it’ or ‘good but way overpriced’. At first, I assumed that if people were willing to pay so much for these bags, they must have something truly special. But as I continued dissecting luxury bags I had paid a lot for, I realised that most didn’t have anything particularly extraordinary to justify the high price. Many were simply well-made bags with an inflated price tag. This showed me that, in most cases, what people are really paying for in the luxury leather world is the status associated with the logo – not the rare craftsmanship, which, to me, is what true luxury should represent.
h: You emphasise the sensory experience of leather. How do you think the tactile and olfactory qualities of leather contribute to its allure, and can you describe a moment when a particular piece of leather evoked a strong sensory reaction for you?
TL: Humans are naturally connected to nature, and leather, as a product of nature, taps into that connection. Just as a beautiful landscape or sunset can stir deep emotions, leather has the same effect. It embodies a chaotic beauty that only nature can create. When we touch high-quality leather, we sense a kind of energy – it feels alive and evokes good emotions. The scent of fine leather, with its earthy, organic notes reminiscent of coffee or natural products, taps into something primal.
Sadly, many people have forgotten this connection, which makes it easier for brands to sell products based solely on marketing rather than genuine quality. People often think they can’t recognise quality leather, but they actually can – they’ve just been disconnected from it.
h: With increasing awareness of ethical production, how do you ensure that the leather you use is sourced responsibly, and what steps do you take to promote sustainability in your products?
TL: I’m thrilled to see more awareness around ethical production, especially in fashion. When it comes to leather, there’s an organisation called the Leather Working Group (LWG) that certifies tanneries based on their environmental practices, and I pay close attention to that certification when sourcing my materials. Beyond that, I always visit the tanneries I work with. It’s something I’ve done since I was young, and it’s a habit that remains vital to me. I need to see firsthand how things are done, ensuring everything aligns with my values.
I’ve also spent the last seven years running my own workshop in Turkey, but as my products have become more complex, I’ve moved production to Spain, working with workshops that produce for many luxury brands. I like knowing the people who work on my products and ensuring they are treated and paid fairly. That hands-on connection ensures sustainability in my manufacturing process.
The recent Dior scandal showed how dangerous it is for companies to focus only on price and cost-cutting with remote manufacturers. When you lose touch with the people making your products, shady practices can slip through. I need to know who’s behind my products, which is why I’m relocating to Spain to work closely with my craftsmen.
h: The ash test you devised to verify vegetable-tanned leathers is quite innovative. What other unconventional methods do you use to test and validate the quality of leather, and how did you come up with these techniques?
TL: The ash test isn’t something I invented; it’s actually a traditional method used by tanneries to check for vegetable tanning. It was just less known to the general public, so when I introduced it in my videos, it got attention.
The acetone test, however, is something I came up with. No one in the industry typically removes the finish from leather to see what’s underneath. When I first started making videos, I wanted to evaluate the quality of leather beneath the surface. I found some acetone in the office, tried it, and discovered it was great for stripping away the finish to reveal what was underneath. It’s now a standard test in my videos, and it arose simply from my curiosity about what was hiding beneath the surface of these luxury bags.
h: After dissecting various high-end brands like Hermès, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton, what criteria do you believe truly define a high-quality leather product, and which brand has most consistently met these standards?
TL: After dissecting dozens of bags, I’ve boiled it down to five pillars of a great leather product: leather quality, hardware, design, structure, and craftsmanship. Brands like Hermès, Loewe, and Bottega Veneta consistently excel in all five categories. When you pay thousands for a bag, you expect more than just good looks – you want exceptional leather, unique designs, sturdy structures that hold up, exquisite craftsmanship, and high-quality hardware. These brands deliver on that promise.
Not all luxury brands meet these standards, though. Prada, for example, uses heavily finished leather that doesn’t require high-quality materials. Their hardware is decent, but their designs feel outdated, and the craftsmanship often doesn’t challenge their artisans. Louis Vuitton is a mixed bag (pun intended). Some of their leather goods are exceptional, but the iconic brown canvas pieces don’t meet my leather quality standards since the canvas isn’t leather. It’s hit or miss with them, depending on the product.
h: Your presence on social media has garnered millions of followers. How do you use these platforms to educate consumers about leather, and what has been the most rewarding aspect of engaging with your audience online?
TL: I’m honestly humbled and surprised by how much attention my content has received. I never expected to reach so many people. My goal was simply to share my love for leather and educate people who, like me, felt there was a lack of transparency in the market.
The most rewarding part is hearing from people who say they don’t care about fashion or leather but still enjoy my videos. They find the content entertaining and appreciate that I’m demystifying the world of leather goods. It makes me feel like my efforts are making a difference, and it’s become a passion. It’s almost like a second job, but I enjoy it as much as making leather goods, so I can’t complain.
h: Looking ahead, what innovations or trends do you see shaping the future of leather crafting, and how do you plan to incorporate these into your work at PEGAI?
TL: The future looks bright for smaller brands and independent artisans. The internet has levelled the playing field, allowing craftsmen to showcase their work to a global audience without needing huge capital investments or retail space. I think this is a good thing – it will push the big luxury players to offer more than just a logo, forcing them to improve quality and provide unique experiences.
For PEGAI, I want to stay true to my roots. I don’t have any plans to scale into a large corporation. I love being a micro-boutique brand, working with my family and a small team of craftsmen I admire. I want to keep that personal connection to my products while using the internet to reach more people.
h: Among all the leather goods you have worked with or dissected, do you have a personal favourite piece? What makes it stand out to you both as a craftsman and as a leather enthusiast?
TL: The Loewe Puzzle Bag is probably the most impressive piece I’ve dissected. It checks all the boxes for quality leather, craftsmanship, design, structure, and hardware. If I were a luxury customer willing to spend thousands on a bag, Loewe would be my first stop. That review was eye-opening for me, and it led me to Ubrique, a village known for its exceptional leather craftsmanship. I’m actually planning to move there soon to work more closely with the artisans. The Puzzle Bag was a pivotal discovery for me, both as a leather enthusiast and a craftsman, and it has inspired me to take my own craft to the next level.
Photography courtesy of TANNER LEATHERSTEIN
