Jakarie Whitaker, a rising star in the fashion world and a recipient of the prestigious Fashion Scholarship Fund’s Virgil Abloh Post-Modern Scholarship, is making waves with his forward-thinking designs. Rooted in the exploration of post-human existence, his brand Hikari no Yami blends Japanese traditions with dystopian, deconstructed aesthetics, pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

hube: Your work often explores the theme of post-human existence. How did this concept become central to your design philosophy, and what does it represent in the context of your collections?

Jakarie Whitaker: With Hikari no Yami, it was always about something beyond human existence. The post-human experience, I believe, is one of the greatest forms of philosophy personified. Hikari no Yami is my medium for expressing thoughts on philosophy and the metaphysical questions of everyday life. My design philosophy is rooted in appreciating chaos, darkness, and deconstruction so that one can truly value order, light, and creation.

h: The Hikari no Yami collection uses a monochrome palette and deconstructed forms. How do these design choices help convey the collection’s themes of dystopia and technological dominance?

JW: Using black and white has always been an essential way for me to express Hikari no Yami’s main themes of yin and yang, light and darkness. A monochromatic colour palette allows me to highlight these dualistic elements easily, helping the observer distinguish between the two opposing philosophies that the garment is trying to convey.

Hikari no Yami is all about presenting these ideas through destroyed, deconstructed designs. When you view the garments, it’s hard to tell the age of the pieces, and that’s something I like. With dystopian fashion, you gain a sense of freedom from expectations and comfort. The themes always touch on society’s pressures, especially the burden of societal expectations.

h: Your designs often integrate elements of traditional Japanese attire in a futuristic context. How do you balance respect for tradition with the desire to innovate and push boundaries?

JW: I love the idea of blending worlds, which is why I named the brand Hikari no Yami. I place a lot of emphasis on respecting Japanese design philosophy and techniques. I often start with basic flat patterns, like those used in kimonos or hakama, and then I integrate the brand’s philosophy. After that, I add my cultural heritage as an African American, merging these worlds to create something completely new. My concept of innovation is simple: keep moving forward.

h: Hikari no Yami has been described as a brand built around philosophy. How do you incorporate philosophical concepts into your design process, and how do they influence the final product?

JW: For every Hikari no Yami collection, I begin with two contrasting philosophical themes – whether it’s Nihilism vs. Existentialism, Absurdism vs. Humanism, and so on. I want to give physical form to these philosophical ideas. For example, when a garment is deconstructed, torn, or tattered, it can represent the hardships we face in life. I like to think that when people view my work, they can choose freely between the philosophical standpoints I’ve embedded in the designs.

h: You’ve gained attention for your unconventional and transgressive designs. What motivates you to challenge traditional fashion norms, and what impact do you hope your work has on the industry?

JW: I’m not trying to go against traditional fashion just for the sake of being controversial. I simply want the freedom to create without limitations or societal expectations. Hikari no Yami is built around my dream of freedom, and that freedom takes many forms. I hope my work inspires others to step outside the box, to be society’s wild cards, and to create their own philosophies without boundaries.

h: Your Tokyo exhibition dedicated to the launch of the Hikari no Yami collection marks a significant milestone. How has the experience of showcasing your work in Japan influenced your creative direction and future projects?

JW: Bringing Hikari no Yami to Japan has always been a huge dream of mine. It was amazing to see admiration for the brand in person, not just online. After The Setting Sun exhibition, I was inspired to pursue a runway show at Tokyo Fashion Week.

h: Hikari no Yami is known for its dark, apocalyptic themes. How do you see these themes evolving in your future collections, and what new ideas are you excited to explore?

JW: I’ll always stay true to the dark, apocalyptic motifs, but I’m a firm believer in deconstructing everything and starting from scratch. Just like philosophy evolves over time, I want Hikari no Yami to constantly evolve too. I’m excited to keep building new stories and ideas for the future.

h: Looking at the fashion industry today, how do you see your work within the larger context of global fashion, and what do you believe is the future of avant-garde design?

JW: With Hikari no Yami, I took inspiration from my favourite brands, like Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Undercover, and shaped them through my own perspective. But I also want the brand to be accessible to the general public, emphasising sustainability and social impact. Hikari no Yami is a commentary on slowing down fast fashion and focusing on sustainable, high-end, avant-garde wear. I believe the future of avant-garde is bright, and I hope to stand alongside the new generation of rebels shaping that future.