Fashion, Culture and Community with Jacques Agbobly

Jacques Agbobly founded Agbobly, a Brooklyn-based design studio, to amplify Black, queer, and immigrant narratives in fashion. With a commitment to sustainability and a celebration of Togolese heritage, Agbobly crafts vibrant designs that break down gender binaries and uplift communities through storytelling. 

hube: What inspired you to establish Agbobly during the height of the pandemic in 2020, and how has the brand evolved since then?

Jacques Agbobly: Facing a global pandemic was a defining moment, one that felt serendipitous in its timing. I received an outpouring of support, including a GoFundMe campaign initiated by a mentor, to help secure a studio space. This dedicated space became a vital sanctuary for nurturing my creativity during the pandemic’s challenges. Sharing my knits on Instagram stories yielded an overwhelming response, confirming that I was following the right path. Despite lacking a clear roadmap, my passion for creating what I loved, and ensuring accessibility for others, drove me forward. Initially, I focused on what I could manage, which was knitwear. This sustained us during the early stages of the pandemic. Over time, I expanded our offerings to include additional items, culminating in the development of a comprehensive ready-to-wear collection. 

Initially, our business revolved around creating unique, custom-designed sweaters. While this allowed us to maintain a manageable scope, I realised that to sustain and expand, we needed to broaden our horizons and focus on developing a larger collection. As we transitioned more towards wholesale, our attention shifted to encompass a variety of ready-to-wear items.

In February of this year, we showcased our latest collection, “Bienvenue à Bord,” during NYFW for the first time. The support from my community, in particular, was instrumental in launching Agbobly. Beyond the crowdfunding campaign, having people who were cheering me on helped me overcome many obstacles in my brand’s journey.

h: How do you carve out a unique space in the fashion industry by championing Black, queer, and immigrant narratives, and in what innovative ways does the brand actively shape and propel these narratives forward?

JA: While it may be often reiterated, I firmly believe in the significant impact of representation. Far too frequently, individuals who share similar identities to mine contribute greatly to the fashion industry without receiving due recognition or opportunities afforded to others. While progress has been made, it remains imperative to advocate for these perspectives.  Fashion transcends borders, and those involved, both in front and behind the scenes, should reflect this global diversity.

Even today, the number of Black Creative Directors, especially Black women in the industry, remains disproportionately low. Growing up, it was rare to witness individuals who resembled me holding prominent positions in fashion. These experiences led me to doubt that I could ever achieve the level of success I envisioned for myself. I was unaware of any African or Black designers whose brands had gained global recognition for most of my life. 

In my brand, I prioritise ensuring a diverse perspective throughout our team and collaborations. The narratives and stories I weave into my work stem from my unique experiences as a Black, queer immigrant raised in a different cultural context from my country of birth. By continuing to amplify these narratives, I aim not only to create opportunities for myself but also to pave the way for the next generation of emerging designers and brands.

h: How do you incorporate Black history, West African handcraft, and artisan traditions into modern fashion, and what challenges have you faced in breaking down gender binaries within the industry?

JA: My work directly reflects my journey as a West African immigrant growing up in America. Navigating through various challenges, I have forged my path and carved out my identity.  My heritage is integral to who I am, and I often find myself having to build something meaningful from limited resources, all while preserving the rich history of my people within every aspect of my brand.

Unfortunately, the contributions of Africans in the global fashion industry are frequently overlooked, and we are seldom regarded as central figures in the realm of luxury. Through my work, I want to challenge this perception by offering a diverse perspective on what constitutes luxury.

h: How do your Togolese identity and heritage serve as a foundational element in your designs?

JA: My Togolese heritage serves as a profound source of inspiration for the colours and patterns evident throughout my brand. From the vibrant sunflower prints to the meticulously crafted knits, my upbringing holds significant importance for the ethos of the brand. Even the all-over print ensembles draw inspiration from the sartorial choices of Togolese uncles, adorned in sleek black shoes and coordinating blazers. The inspiration for the women’s wear in my brand stems directly from the women in my life. Observing my aunts preparing for church or social gatherings, witnessing my cousins’ attire for parties, and being influenced by all the women around me have shaped the essence of our womenswear. 

My Togolese identity acts as a guiding lens in my design process, with constant consideration for the meticulous tailoring reminiscent of the seamstresses I observed in my childhood. These early encounters with the artistry and innovation of fashion sparked my passion for exploration in the field.

h: The elimination of excess production and the focus on custom-made-to-order design sets Agbobly as a brand apart. How has this model allowed you to uphold your commitment to environmental sustainability and community upliftment?

JA: Our custom-made-to-order design ethos truly anchors the brand in community empowerment and environmental sustainability by centring on the essence of craftsmanship. Each garment embodies a deliberate focus that distinguishes it from other models. Prioritising one garment at a time honors the skilled artisans and co-designers, while also enriching the experience for the buyer, who has the opportunity to reconnect with a nearly forgotten art form in the Western world. In Togo, custom clothing remains the predominant model, making my commitment to it a celebration of African sustainability and individuality as well.  

Some items in my wardrobe are creations crafted by my uncle for my father, which were then entrusted to me following his passing. With Agbobly, I aim to design timeless clothing that transcends generations, carrying on beyond individual ownership. Our journey began with custom-made pieces as a tribute to the artisans and craftspeople I observed creating clothing in my grandmother’s home in Togo.

Looking ahead, our vision is to establish infrastructure in Togo, providing employment opportunities for these artisans and investing in community development. We aspire to create a craft school that will not only produce goods for Agbobly but also foster skill development and economic growth within the communities.

h: Could you reflect on the inspiration behind the vibrant colours, artisanal materiality, and visionary silhouettes in your designs, drawing from your personal experiences as an indigenous, non-binary immigrant?

JA: The vibrant hues of the Togolese flag – green, yellow, and red – serve as a primary wellspring of inspiration for me. These colours not only hold significance for Togo but also resonate with numerous West African nations, contributing to broader conversations about African identity evolution. I appreciate how they evoke feelings of home while also symbolising the collective spirit of Africa. 

The silhouettes in my work draw inspiration from the impeccable style of my aunts and uncles, whose meticulously tailored attire left a lasting impression on me. Emulating their tailoring techniques has become a cornerstone of my brand. I firmly believe in the transformative power of tailoring, regardless of the fabric, to elevate any garment to its fullest potential. 

I started with designing womenswear that was deeply influenced by the remarkable women in my life. Observing my aunts and cousins preparing for various occasions left me mesmerised by their transformation and their commanding presence through their attire. From a young age, I wanted to evoke such emotions myself, however, growing up in a conservative environment, expressing oneself through attire beyond traditional gender norms was frowned upon. During college, I envisioned my menswear line as a playful exploration of the spectrum, blending elements of both masculinity and femininity.

h: Storytelling plays a significant role in Aabobly’s mission. How does the brand use storytelling to uplift communities and create a deeper connection with consumers?

JA: As a heritage brand, Agbobly naturally incorporates storytelling into its collections. My latest collection, “Bienvenue A Bord,” narrates the journey of a family relocating from Togo to the United States, compelled to establish new traditions while preserving the essence of their heritage. Similarly, upon arriving in the US, I experienced the need to navigate the creation of a new identity—a sentiment shared by many Africans. I aim for the brand to provide a welcoming space for consumers to embrace existing beyond conventional boundaries.

h: As a semi-finalist for the 2024 LVMH Prize, how do you perceive the significance of participating in a contest like this? In your opinion, what impact does being recognised as a semi-finalist in the LVMH Prize have on your personal and professional journey within the fashion industry?

JA: This moment is profoundly significant in my career – it’s something I wake up to every day and still can’t believe. Being here validates not only the hard work I’ve put in but also the contributions of the many individuals who have believed in me along the way. I mean, it doesn’t get much bigger than the LVMH Prize. This award has been a career-defining moment for many designers whom I admired while growing up. To be considered among them is a blessing I once only dreamed of.

To think that I started this brand simply out of passion, making sweaters. Running a brand is akin to planting a seed; you water it, nurture it, and hope it grows. I’m definitely in the seed-planting stage, and with this nomination, it feels like I’m on my way to witnessing its blossoming. I cherished being in the showroom and meeting numerous figures in the fashion industry whom I had previously only heard of or known through social media. The fact that their eyes were on my work is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and I’m immensely grateful for this validation. It’s a step forward in what I hope is the right direction.

This nomination has provided me with validation. Not only am I the only African brand nominated this year, but I’m also the very first brand from Togo. As I’ve always emphasised, Africa is often overlooked in the global fashion context. My goal with Agbobly is to showcase it on the world stage and to bring African fashion and creations made by Africans to the forefront of the industry. It’s extremely significant for me to be here.

h: Looking ahead, what are your aspirations for the future of Agbobly, both in terms of its impact on the fashion landscape and its contributions to social and environmental causes?

JA: I aspire for Agbobly to lead the way in preserving African craftsmanship. The innovation that the fashion industry craves must have a solid foundation in craftsmanship, and I envision Agbobly exemplifying this. My aim with Agbobly is to establish it as a heritage brand – to create something that will have a profound cultural impact, something that future generations will reflect upon. I want to build something that transcends my existence.  People often perceive African-made products as niche, but I refuse to be confined to that category. My ambition is for Agbobly to achieve global success. Our tagline, “Agbobly to the world,” encapsulates this vision, and I am determined to realise it. I recognise the importance of mindful practices. I initially started this brand by crafting sweaters, focusing on producing only what was necessary. I am cautious not to expand too rapidly or wastefully and I am deliberate in selecting environmentally friendly materials. I envision Agbobly evolving into an ecosystem where we can support other initiatives in the future and contribute to bolstering the infrastructure of African craftsmanship.

On a social level, I am passionate about Agbobly becoming a brand that resonates with first and second-generation Africans living outside of the continent – individuals who have grown up navigating between cultural lines, unsure of where they fit in. I want Agbobly to serve as a sanctuary for them. I refuse to let Africa be marginalised as something niche, separate from the global fashion discourse. I am committed to establishing a system that invests in enhancing African culture on a global scale.