Illuah, a luxury womenswear brand, is the brainchild of Lauren Worthington. Launched in 2019, Illuah blends Australian design ethos with Italian artistry, emphasising sustainability and timeless elegance. Lauren’s early fashion career began in Sydney, and her vision for Illuah was further shaped by her experiences in Italy, where she collaborated with local artisans to create high-quality, eco-friendly clothing.
hube: What inspired the inception of Illuah, blending Australian design ethos with Italian craftsmanship to create slow fashion?
Lauren Worthington: My inspiration for Illuah evolved from when I was young. I have been creating designs for as long as I can remember. I left school early at the age of 15 and studied fashion in Sydney, initially designing clothing that was comfortable and casual, fitting with Australian culture. I focused on using natural eco materials and practices. Moving to Italy to study further, I was introduced to another world of traditional craftsmanship and high fashion. This influenced my personal style considerably, and I began working with Italian artisans to develop high-end luxury wear that integrates the comfort of the Australian lifestyle. I have had the great fortune to grow up in a distinct natural environment, which imbued me with the desire to create clothing using sustainable materials and an ethos of slow fashion.
h: Could you share some insights into the unique design process that ensures each piece embodies timeless elegance while maintaining sustainability?
LW: When I design, I always have in mind to create pieces that are comfortable, timeless, and integrated with sustainability. I hope the pieces will be kept for a long time. I look for materials and yarns of great quality that will withstand time, as well as working with natural materials such as wool, cashmere, cotton, and some unique fibres. The design process does vary from time to time as I like collaborating with diverse artisans who have different methods, but we are always working to avoid any waste, sourcing from notable vendors, and using materials that don’t leave a footprint once disposed of.
h: How does Illuah ensure ethical practices throughout its supply chain, especially while collaborating with artisans in Italy?
LW: We collaborate with artisans in Italy, Paris and Australia, and aren’t limited in where we produce. I maintain ethical practices in our supply chain by working closely with artisans in a collaborative sense. I work with people who are also inspired by fashion and have a similar mindset, who are passionate about creating in a way that’s not detrimental to the environment. From design to delivery and every step in between, I monitor and guarantee that I have chosen every ethical and environmental option over economical ones. That’s why in the end, our prices are where they are. I personally choose every material and process we work with. I stand strictly with ethical practices. I hope that one day, once Illuah is off the ground more and I’m not spending more money than I make, I could give a percentage of the profit to charitable causes. I truly hope to use Illuah as a vessel not only for my love of design but also to do something beneficial. My favourite quote is ‘Leave it better than how you found it’.
h: In what ways does Illuah contribute to the preservation of traditional craftsmanship and heritage techniques in the fashion industry?
LW: We contribute to preserving traditional craftsmanship by supporting artisans in the fashion industry and honouring their valuable skills.
h: Could you highlight a signature piece from your collection and walk us through its journey from the design concept to the hands of the customer?
LW: The process normally goes the same as most. I keep a handbook filled with designs that show in my dreams, random ideas that come through, and art and concepts that I would like to integrate. If I’m working with someone, I can get inspired by their skills, so we might work with that. Normally, I design the shape and style first, then focus on the fabric or stitch. Working on my last capsule with Céline Breton, her expertise and inspiration lay in the fabric, so we started there and then found fitting silhouettes. For a point of reference, the ‘Kie’ started with a conversation between Céline and me and a mood board of the stitch style we were looking to create. Amongst it were images of some of Céline’s previous work that inspired me. We ran a series of tests for different concepts, and Céline sent me some ideas she had that correlated with the mood. After lots of back-and-forth emails, meetings, and swatches, we created a stitch that was the perfect mix of sheer, feminine, and unique. We wanted to create the right balance of transparency while remaining refined. I knew I wanted to do something with beads. We opted for a simple silhouette as the main focus was the stitch. Once it was all ready, we sent the pieces to my space in Australia, and all went from there.
h: Quality is often synonymous with luxury. How does Illuah balance luxury with accessibility to ensure its pieces are attainable without compromising on craftsmanship?
LW: This has been quite a challenging area. I have set the price point as low as I can to be the most attainable it can be for what it is. There are many factors I wasn’t willing to compromise on, for instance, order quantities, production location, fabrics, travel carbon offsetting emissions, tags, and eco-material solutions. I have been doing the best I can in those areas by substituting for others. I try to do as much as I can myself. It’s been tough, really.
h: The fashion industry is constantly evolving. How does Illuah stay ahead of trends while remaining true to its ethos of timeless design?
LW: Honestly, I can see trends coming and I avoid delving into them at all costs. They go out as quickly as they come in, a temporary love-hate cycle, which to me doesn’t make sense to get involved in when a product takes much time and precision to make. I want the pieces to be kept and worn and not go out of style. I have kept some pieces in stock as ‘evergreen’ products, which is connected to this. Although while I say this, at the same time basic silhouettes do change, which I think is a slower effect. For instance, high-waisted pants have changed to low-mid waist, and it’s more trendy to wear a mid-length skirt compared to a few years ago.
h: What role do you see Illuah playing in shaping the future of sustainable fashion, both in Australia and globally?
LW: On the sustainability front, I would hope Illuah plays a part in contributing and raising money for certain causes and using unique fibres that help shift the industry in a different direction. Being part of the movement to a zero carbon footprint, being a platform of innovation.
Photography courtesy of ILLUAH