On January 27th, 2025, Paris will host Martin Margiela: The Early Years, 1988-94, the largest-ever auction of the designer’s early works. Taking place at 81 Boulevard Voltaire and organized by Kerry Taylor Auctions and Maurice Auction, the sale will present over 270 rare pieces that showcase Margiela’s formative years and his groundbreaking approach to fashion.
The collection, amassed by sisters Angela and Elena Picozzi, features garments, sketches, and ephemera preserved since Margiela’s collaborations with their mother, Graziella Picozzi, in the late 1980s. Among the highlights are designs from Margiela’s iconic Spring-Summer 1990 collection, including oversized silhouettes, painted canvas jackets, and transparent vinyl pieces. Another standout is the little-known “!” project, featuring nearly 70 hand-drawn sketches and garments from the Autumn-Winter 1989-90 season, created before Margiela launched his eponymous Maison.
Angela and Elena Picozzi expressed their hope that the auction will bring renewed appreciation to Margiela’s early vision, stating, “We believe these items are essential to fashion history and deserve to be studied and celebrated.”
The sale will be preceded by a public exhibition, offering visitors a rare opportunity to view Margiela’s pioneering work up close. True to the designer’s avant-garde ethos, the event will be held in a repurposed industrial space, mirroring the raw, deconstructed aesthetic that defined his career.
For fashion enthusiasts and historians alike, this auction marks a unique chance to acquire pieces that capture the essence of Margiela’s revolutionary design philosophy—one that continues to influence contemporary fashion.
