Beyond the masks

MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp presents Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor, a multimedia exhibition exploring the artistry of masks, make-up, and identity through the lens of James Ensor’s work and contemporary creators. Running until February 2nd, 2025, the show bridges historical and modern perspectives on self-presentation, beauty ideals, and artistic experimentation.

James Ensor, celebrated for his use of masks as symbols of deception and revelation, serves as a central inspiration for the exhibition. From the late 19th century, Ensor’s paintings confronted societal insecurities, using masks and accessories to unmask hidden truths. Today, his themes resonate deeply in a world where beauty standards, ageing, and identity remain at the forefront of cultural conversation.

The exhibition opens with 12 original paintings by Ensor, including works that highlight his critical eye on coquetry and artifice. Complementing these historical pieces are thought-provoking contemporary works. For instance, Issy Wood’s monumental self-portraits examine discomfort with self-image and photography, while Genieve Figgis’ grotesque yet beautiful figures echo Ensor’s playful ambiguity.

The show also spotlights leading figures from the worlds of fashion, beauty, and photography. Pat McGrath’s striking porcelain doll-like make-up for Maison Margiela’s 2024 couture collection is featured alongside the iconic Rosalie doll. Meanwhile, Julien d’Ys detailed sketchbooks and sculptural hair creations showcase the craftsmanship behind his work for Comme des Garçons.

Cindy Sherman’s Head Shots series offers an exploration of persona and self-transformation through close-up photography. In a similar vein, Bruce Gilden’s unfiltered portraits expose the raw humanity beneath physical appearances. The exhibition’s curators, Kaat Debo, Elisa De Wyngaert, and Romy Cockx, emphasize the interplay between artifice and authenticity, drawing parallels between Ensor’s masks and the transformative power of make-up.

The works of Belgian make-up artist Inge Grognard form a key highlight, with her creations for Maison Martin Margiela displayed as vivid posters, complete with the tools used to achieve each look. A reflective video portrait of Grognard offers rare insight into her process, underscoring her status as a “painter of fashion.”

The exhibition also addresses the broader implications of beauty culture today, including the relentless pursuit of youth and perfection. British hairstylist Cyndia Harvey’s installation, featuring an exaggerated bridal figure surrounded by mirrors and draped in Christian Lacroix couture, confronts societal fears of ageing with theatrical elegance.

Through a dynamic combination of paintings, videos, photography, and installations, Masquerade, Make-up & Ensor reveals how masks and make-up transcend superficiality, offering tools for self-expression and storytelling.