FANRUI SAN

Fanrui Sun

In this exclusive interview with fashion designer Fanrui Sun, we explore the captivating journey of an artist whose creativity has been molded by a unique blend of experiences. From graduating with a focus on BA fashion design at LAFA University to obtaining a master’s degree from the esteemed Royal College of Arts, Sun’s diverse background lays the groundwork for her innovative work. Throughout our conversation, we delve into the profound impact of computer games on her artistic trajectory, uncover the influence of nature and organic forms, and discuss the delicate balance she strikes between traditional and digital art techniques.

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hube: As a child you were fascinated by computer games. What emotions, memories or feelings from that time drive you now when you create your work? 

Fanrui Sun: When I was a kid, I was really into matchmaking games like Dungeon Fighter and The King of Fighters, which were the first games to make me aware of the whole new universe that technology brought. Different character images, especially the distinctive clothing appearance. Buying equipment, props and clothing in games gave different looks and attributes to characters, but also brought about an early sense of clothing and identity that arose between players (a kind of society). These arise entirely in the digital world, which is like a simplified and diverse version of the real world, and it is fascinating for a child to have easy access to these unique looks. They made me, as a young child, envision my own digital identity and image.

h: Can you tell us about your background and how you got started in the world of design?

FS: I graduated from LAFA University, majoring in BA fashion design. And I graduated with my MA from the Royal College of Arts, majoring in digital wear. While art is a deeper perspective on reality, fashion has a deep history of its own, reflecting the popular culture of different periods, which contains a complex relationship between the body and concepts of appearance, identity, surface, space, society, etc. These relationships not only offer fashion a myriad of possibilities but also impose greater responsibilities and obligations. As the philosopher Wilson once said: when we wear clothes, our bodies are inscribed with an ambiguous relationship between art, personal psychology and social order. For me, as mentioned above, the aesthetics of fashion and the question of identity have been with me since I was a child, and by investigating the possibilities of fashion, I have been able to express myself through a unique perspective.

h: The digital world gives us freedom: from the laws of physics to the freedom to create. What elements of freedom are you missing in the real world?

FS: The digital world breaks through the limitations of physical time and space, so I am able to experiment with different materials and structures as I wish, but most of them are focused on the visual and auditory senses, and tactile sensation is one of the most important sensory experiences that we have, which is also missing in my digital work.

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h: You often feature colorful and intricate patterns in your designs. What role does color play in your work, and how do you choose your color palettes?

FS: Colour plays a very important role in my designs, it is one of the key elements to express and convey emotions, personality and design themes. I am mainly inspired by nature and marine life, the ocean has the power to encompass everything and the marine life in it appeals to me, their structure and brilliant colours inspire me to be very creative. I really love the vibrant and stunning hues of marine life, such as coral reefs in a wide range of reds, pinks, oranges, and purples, and the variegated polarized metallic surfaces of banded fish.

h: Many of your designs incorporate elements of nature and organic forms. What draws you to these themes, and how do they influence your work?

FS: Nature and organic forms have always been a major source of inspiration and creativity in my designs. I have always been drawn to the beauty, complexity and endless creativity found in nature—the power of natural beauty—and these elements have profoundly influenced my work. Plants, animals and landforms in nature have their unique forms and structures and colours, and these forms have often been the basis of inspiration for my designs. At the same time, the ecosystems of nature inspire me to think about sustainability and environmental protection. I endeavour to convey my respect and preservation of nature in my designs, and I hope to use my narratives to inspire people to reconnect with nature and to convey the idea of sustainability and beauty in fashion.

h: How do you balance between digital and traditional art techniques in your work?

FS: Since digital fashion is a brand new field, everything in it has yet to be explored. I think my work is based on a passion to face something new and to explore its various possibilities: new forms, new ways of blending with other fields, new technologies. I just see digital technology as a tool to help me realize my ideas, and I like to experiment with how to relate different digital technologies to the physical world, such as using 3D printing, or projection, scanning, etc.

h: Are there any artists or designers who have had a significant influence on your work or creative journey? If so, who are they and how have they inspired you?

FS: Iris van Herpen and Maison Schiaparelli, and 3D printed footwear brand Scry.

Iris van Herpen’s innovative and futuristic approach has had a profound impact on me. Her fusion of technology and art has inspired me to explore different materials, fabrication processes and structures in fashion design. Her work has fuelled my interest in digital technology and material innovation, which play an important role in my designs.

Schiaparelli’s designs emphasise individuality and uniqueness, which are values I hold dear when creating. Their insanely bold and creative designs inspire me to understand more about fashion and make me brave enough to experiment with new ideas and forms.

As for Scry, this 3D printed shoe brand represents the future of manufacturing and customisability at the forefront. Their innovative spirit and use of technology inspired me to seek out new methods of fabrication in fashion design to provide more personalised and innovative options. I really love their one-piece printing and sustainable ideas that are creating the future.

The influence of these artists and brands has had a profound impact on my design and creative journey, encouraging me to explore new territories and pursue innovation in fashion design while maintaining respect for traditional craftsmanship and materials. They are a source of inspiration in my creative endeavours, fuelling my passion to constantly explore fashion design.

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h: You’ve been involved with cutting-edge technologies that have significantly transformed our world. Could you share your experience working with modern and innovative materials made possible by high technology? Additionally, are there specific materials you’re eager to incorporate into your future projects?

FS: Today, technology offers us unprecedented possibilities, and through various digital mediums, we can enrich the fashion experience, promoting inclusivity and diversity in how we express our bodies and identities. My personal experimentation with 3D technologies such as AR, VR, and 3D printing has been instrumental in this journey. For instance, AR technology allows for the creation of digital clothing and accessories that can be virtually worn and customized, reducing the need for physical stock, promoting sustainability, and enhancing the interactivity and versatility of fashion. And 3D printing technology also connects our digital and physical worlds with the idea of making everything a reality. I am very much looking forward to integrating more technology in fashion design as it develops in the future to enrich everyone’s fashion experience.

Furthermore, the collaborative and open-source spirit inherent in the digital industry, including the sharing of digital design assets, tutorials, and skills on the internet, as well as the availability of professional workshops and networking opportunities, fosters an environment that promotes collaboration within the digital fashion community.

h: What is your vision for the future? Do you believe that achieving a state of perfect harmony with nature is attainable for humanity, and how do you envision the role of technology in this aspiration?

FS: As a digital fashion designer, my vision for the future is to create fashion that is highly innovative and sustainable, whilst seamlessly integrating humans with nature. I believe that in the future, humans can live in harmony with nature, but this requires us to take positive action and use the power of technology to achieve this.

But at the same time, I also think I should be critical and aware of the possibilities and limitations of digital technology, especially its potential ethical and social issues. And take a fair look at different technologies, realize that they are really just different mediums and means, and remain passionate about exploring the diversity of digital means.

I’m looking forward to more innovative technologies than just new visuals. And I am both excited and tired about working in technology because everything is changing so fast, bringing so many new things and giving me so much pressure. I also think we have to maintain the right ethics. We need to consider the relationship between technology and human beings and society.

For example, we need to be wary of the techno pollyanna brought about by the metaverse, which seems to have been over-promoted by the media and companies as if it were a beautiful fairy tale. Decentralization, freedom, equality, but data can be modified, the digital world can be whitewashed, we should be careful not to overlook the problems that still exist in the real world, disease/poverty/famine/pollution…

h: Finally, for aspiring designers and artists, what advice would you give them to help them grow and develop their creative skills?

FS: I believe that an increasing number of fashion designers will continue to seamlessly integrate digital technology into their design processes. So I suggest that people embrace and perceive different digital technologies, digital software serves as a powerful tool for realizing our creative visions, and within the expansive digital toolkit and growing ecosystem, we’ll embark on a continuous exploration of self and the future expression through fashion. We are creating the future.

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All images courtesy of FANRUI SAN

ISSUE 5

FW24 ISSUE IS HERE