Step into the enchanting world of ABRA by Abraham Ortuño Perez, where fashion becomes a narrative and memories come to life. The AW24 collection, a mesmerising tapestry of design, explores the fusion of nostalgia, creativity, and mentorship that shapes each exquisite piece in this season’s captivating showcase of elegance and emotion.
hube: Could you describe the process of weaving the compelling beauty of everyday femininity and cosmetics into your collection, and how it resonates with the overall theme?
Abraham Ortuño Perez: I wanted to create an everyday look, almost like a uniform for different moments through the day. Comfortable clothing that makes you feel dressed up but still relaxed. I asked my girlfriends and family what they thought was the perfect suit, dress, shoes, and bag, and then used this as a starting point for the collection.
I’ve always been obsessed with the branding used for cosmetic products. It always feels so glamorous yet so artificial. The ABRA woman has a very natural and effortless look, she doesn’t need makeup, so instead, I turned this love for cosmetics into accessories, almost as an ironic point of view on makeup.
h: How do you balance staying true to your signature style with the desire to experiment and evolve as a designer, and how does this reflect in your recent work?
AOP: For me, the key is to always stick to things that you know like I know who I’m designing for. It’s about still being able to excite your audience, following their needs yet remaining true to yourself.
h: Looking back at your journey, what have been the most rewarding aspects of being a designer, and how have they influenced your future goals for ABRA?
AOP: Knowing that there are people in the world who get me, who love what I do, and who buy my designs. It’s very hard to be an independent brand, I’ve never had any financial support from family or outside parties, so the most rewarding thing is knowing that I built this alone, with my own hands, I’m still here, and thankful for all of the people out there who love it and support us.
h: With your mentor Elena Cardona being a significant part of the AW24 collection, could you tell us about the experiences you gained while collaborating?
AOP: Elena taught me how to be a designer, she taught me that designing was not taking inspiration from other designers but being inspired by ordinary things – an object, a flower, a material. You can create a full collection just by looking around the room you are sitting in now and reading this. She will always be a big part of my world.
h: The mention of dresses made from balloons for Barbie sounds intriguing. How did those childhood creations play a role in shaping the aesthetic of your current collection?
AOP: My parents have a restaurant where they work 24/7, so, like many kids, I spent most of the time with my grandma. My grandma was always fixing clothes at home and taught me how to sew. Teaching me to put the fabric on top of the Barbie and start sewing around the body and cutting the leftovers gave me the idea of making holes in balloons for the head and arms as they were tight enough and I didn’t need to cut the remaining fabric around the body. Large parts of this collection are made from circles with cut-out holes as I used to do when I made clothes for my Barbie.
h: What was the most intriguing part of working on the AW24 collection and what was the most difficult one? Looking back, would you do anything differently?
AOP: It’s definitely my favourite collection under the brand so far. I had so much time to work on it and with this season I was able to create everything in the way I wanted. I guess having a white carpet in my show venue on the rainiest day of Paris Fashion Week is probably something I would think twice about doing again…
h: Are there any plans to expand ABRA into beauty products, perhaps a collaboration with a cosmetics brand?
AOP: I wish – I’m obsessed with beauty routine and the world of cosmetics continues to inspire and fascinate me so it would be a dream.
h: Collaborations often bring fresh perspectives to fashion. Are there any specific designers, artists, or brands you dream of collaborating with in the future, and why?
AOP: Every season we try to work with different collaborators as it always brings a different point of view on the collection, and is always a super fun experience. Sanrio would be a dream collaboration, it’s probably the brand I’ve spent the most money with in my life.
h: In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, how do you stay innovative and relevant, and what role do collaborations play in keeping your designs fresh and exciting?
AOP: I always like to surprise people with my designs, it’s also important to keep a balance between design, comfort, and practicality – even though I think it’s important to not overthink staying relevant as much as just having a feeling and sense for relevant things. It’s amazing to be able to work with anyone who has mastered what they do, so you can benefit from their knowledge and experience, whilst creating something in your vision.
h: What advice would you give to emerging designers who look up to ABRA as an inspiration, especially when it comes to pursuing collaborations and building a unique brand identity?
AOP: The most important thing is to know yourself, discover what makes you unique, understand what you experienced that other people didn’t, and be faithful to that. If people are already doing what you love, do the opposite and you will stand out.
Photography courtesy of ABRA FW24 Show
