Walk through the glistening world of Le Chemin des Maquettes, where every creation is a testament to elegance and innovation. It’s time to uncover mysteries behind the brand’s iconic collaborations with fashion titans like Balmain and Jean-Paul Gaultier, while delving into their relentless pursuit of sustainability and groundbreaking design. Join us as we discover the secrets of jewellery couture and glimpse into the dazzling future forged by Le Chemin des Maquettes.
hube: What influences or inspirations contribute to the unique style of Le Chemin des Maquette’s creations?
Jean-Louis Guimaron: We answer to what designers of the various Maisons de Couture we work with express in their early sketches. Then, depending on how each designer wishes to work, we either have carte blanche to develop a piece with our aesthetic or to follow their guidelines along the creation process.
h: How has the style of your jewellery evolved over time, and what factors have played a role in its development?
JLG: Our style was born from a mix of various elements: the refusal of conformism, the ‘nothing is impossible’ motto, the never-ending technical research to improve our knowledge and, therefore, the pieces, the love for challenges and the fact that we always have to work within very short timeframes, which means we always have to decide what is the best and the most effective way to go in advance.
h: You are known for having a number of iconic collaborations. For the JPG x Simone Rocha collaboration, how did this partnership originate? What specific elements of Simone Rocha’s design language or creative approach contributed to the unique character of the collaborative pieces?
JLG: We have been working with the Maison Jean-Paul Gaultier for 15 years through their jewellery stylist Laurent Tijou. We followed the artistic guidelines of the Gaultier team and added our ‘je ne sais quoi’ and technical expertise so the collection could be born.
h: Could you walk us through the artistic process of creating a new piece, from concept to the final product, highlighting the elements that make it distinct?
JLG: We start with an idea or a sketch. Then, we brainstorm about challenges and technical solutions so we can make the piece happen. After that, we wait for validation from the design team. When we get it, we start building the piece. I would say the element that makes it distinctive is the fact that we work as a team: every idea, opinion and suggestion is heard and studied. It all matters.
h: What specific elements of Balmain’s aesthetic and design philosophy played a role in shaping the collaborative collection with Le Chemin des Maquette?
JLG: It is not so much about aesthetics that it is about challenges and techniques. The Maisons de Couture come whenever they face a technical challenge or need to create a visually breathtaking piece.
h: In terms of materials used, how does Le Chemin des Maquette strive to innovate and set itself apart in the world of design?
JLG: We base a lot on our ‘nothing is impossible’ motto. The more the technical challenge is important, the more we thrive. We use a lot of different techniques, not only jewellery techniques. The team is curious and loves to innovate.
h: Regarding the piece you created for Beyonce, could you provide details on how this iconic partnership unfolded? What were you feeling when designing a piece for one of the most influential singers of the 21st century?
JLG: Once again, the design of the two pieces we made for the Balmain Renaissance Couture x Beyonce was designed by the Balmain team.
The roots of this partnership took place because of the Maison Jean-Paul Gaultier. They have been hosting a new designer each season for a few years now. One of these designers was Olivier Rousteing. We were then introduced to Olivier’s team at Balmain’s and have been working alongside them since that time (Spring-Summer 22).
We are really proud to this day to have had the opportunity to develop such challenging and outstanding pieces for the Balmain x Beyonce Renaissance Couture collection. It was really rewarding as they were published worldwide. We felt our work reached even further than usual.
h: In the case of the collaboration with Schiaparelli, what was the most intriguing yet difficult part? What key elements from Schiaparelli’s legacy or contemporary work influenced the collaborative pieces?
JLG: To this day, this was a one-time collaboration with Schiaparelli as a favour to one of the team members. We don’t have a long-lasting collaboration history with Schiaparelli but we don’t know what the future holds.
h: How does Le Chemin des Maquette integrate sustainability into its design process, and does it impact the overall aesthetic?
JLG: It is very difficult to be truly sustainable in the metalcraft area but we are daily doing our best to avoid increasing our global impact. We do 80% of the work by hand, try to minimise the use of machinery, are careful with the origin of the metal we use and each and every member of the Le Chemin des Maquettes team works with precision so it is the most effective. This ensemble of things gives birth to pieces with beautiful details which give them a soul.
h: Looking ahead, what trends or innovations can we expect from Le Chemin des Maquette, and how will they maintain the brand’s distinct style?
JLG: We recently started working on our own creations, based on our in-house designs. We keep applying the same techniques we use for the Haute Couture designs: brainstorming as a team to get the best ideas and getting motivated by challenges that lead us to innovate designs. As innovation is a very important aspect for us, we want to design and build what was never done before so you can expect to see many more of Le Chemin des Maquettes pieces in the future. This is why our development studio is so important.
Photography courtesy of LE CHEMIN DES MAQUETTES
