Simone Rocha Fall/Winter collection

This season was the final chapter of a triptych, with Simone Rocha working on three previous collections at the same time. Spring/Summer Dress Rehearsals marks the beginning, followed by the couture collection with Jean Paul Gaultier Procession and then the current The Wake.

The Fall/Winter 24 The Wake collection featured a funeral color palette of black, navy and brown faux fur stoles, inspired by Queen Victoria’s 40 years of mourning after the death of Prince Albert. The catwalk featured an abundance of corsets, either as stand-alone pieces or hidden under coats to create exaggerated waistlines reminiscent of the Victorian era.

According to Simone, the collection came about because she had recently been working a lot with archives and preserved items. During her research, she was able to gain access to Queen Victoria’s mourning dress and her personal clothing, which greatly influenced the imagery of the collection.

Rocha’s menswear creations added a fresh twist to her coquette aesthetic with immaculate suits, fur-trimmed evening coats and brooched jackets in midnight blacks. The show also featured billowing white shirts with giant bows and unique accessories such as bags in the shape of Kerry Blue terriers, showcasing Rocha’s Irish roots and her ability to deliver a proper wake with her collection. The voluminous dresses read images inspired by the work of Sian Costello.