Spicing up Berlin

Dalad Kambhu‘s path from the fashion runways of New York to the bustling kitchens of Berlin’s Michelin-starred Kin Dee is a story of passion, resilience and a quest for culinary justice. Known for her commitment to sustainability and conscious cooking, Kambhu has redefined Thai cuisine by marrying traditional flavours with locally sourced ingredients. Now she shares insights into her inspiring journey, the challenges she faces as a female chef in a male-dominated industry and her vision for a more sustainable future in gastronomy.

hube: Your journey from studying and modelling in New York to becoming a Michelin-starred chef in Berlin is intriguing. What inspired you to transition from the fashion world to the culinary world, especially considering the challenges you faced in the beginning?

Dalad Kambhu: My passion for food and the injustice in food cultures visible in the Western world drove me to do what I do. I always loved food, but the injustice and prejudice against minority cuisines, which come with limitations, motivated me to showcase different kinds of food.

h: Your focus on conscious cooking and sourcing ingredients locally is commendable. How do you build relationships with local suppliers and what challenges or rewards come with prioritising locally sourced ingredients?

DK: It wasn’t easy in the beginning with the language barrier, but I was lucky to start at a time when there was a local produce movement. For instance, when I first started cooking at Kin Dee, Markthalleneun (Market Hall 9) in Kreuzberg was a place locals increasingly visited on weekends to buy fresh produce from nearby farmers. It became a weekend spot where we would go for coffee, get some veggies and cheese and perhaps have snacks from a Turkish lady who made Turkish dumplings or have a BBQ. They also offer services to restaurants for purchasing, which was a great help. As time went by, we discovered more local farmers we could buy directly from and developed relationships with them. It is so rewarding to see their produce on your plates, knowing we are serving such good produce that is part of a solution to make the world a better place – this is incredibly rewarding.

h: Kin Dee emphasises using seasonal and regional products with original Thai flavours. How do you approach the process of combining local ingredients with traditional Thai elements to create a unique dining experience?

DK: It used to start out, like most chefs, thinking of what we wanted to eat, but very quickly we learned that we should start by looking at the available produce and cook from there. We combine our passions, memories and love for our food with what is available.

h: As one of only ten female chefs in Germany with a Michelin star, you’ve discussed the challenges of being a woman in the male-dominated food industry. How did you overcome these challenges and what advice do you have for aspiring female chefs?

DK: I like to think that I overcame this challenge, but as time goes by, I realise that we are still in the same male-dominant, male-decision-making and male-power structure. I see the changes, but they are very little and very shallow. The change has not impacted the structure well enough. I think it won’t be in my lifetime to see the structure actually change.

h: How can the culinary arts embrace long-term sustainability and how do you navigate and incorporate such a nuanced concept into the ethos of Kin Dee? 

DK: Long-term sustainability can only happen if we change the short-term survival structure. Currently, the restaurant world is based on youth and male energy of gruesome hours, a take-the-heat mentality and bro clubs. There are great male and female chefs out there who want to make that change and are actually changing it, but it is still a very small part of the industry. Chefs known within the industry as narcissists, abusers and those taking advantage of women or young chefs are still constantly being celebrated. Meanwhile, other chefs trying to do the right things are often overlooked.

h: You mentioned the importance of confidence and sustainability in your perception of beauty. How does this philosophy extend to the presentation of your dishes at Kin Dee and how do you strike a balance between aesthetics and authenticity?

DK: I find women with confidence in their nature incredibly attractive. Coming from Thailand, where light skin was always favoured, I experienced firsthand what it is like to hate your own body. It took me a really long time to learn to love myself for what I am and I still struggle to accept everything about me. That said, I genuinely appreciate authenticity and nature and that transcends into my food. I personally dislike overly-done food. When I see food that is overly done and overly complicated because the chef wants his ego to be fed – I cringe. It is 2024; we are having wars, the disparity between wealth has never been bigger and the world is only getting hotter. Does it make sense to go eat Asian fine dining that adopts the French style of serving with napkins and tablecloths that need to be washed repeatedly, leaking chemicals into our rivers? Does it make sense to have Western servers in Asian restaurants in suits and air conditioning so guests can pay 300 euros for dinner? Does it make sense to have 10 underpaid staff working long hours to create molecular food so the chef can get all the credit and profits while farmers, fishermen and others pay the same price? To me, the answer is no.

h: Incorporating technology into cooking has become increasingly popular, from molecular gastronomy to smoking without heat. How do you adapt the use of technology in your kitchen at Kin Dee and do you see any emerging trends or innovations that excite you?

DK: Some of them do and a lot of them don’t. For instance, we no longer use sous vide because I don’t want microplastics in my food. It is rare for us to use cling wraps because we invest in silicone covers. We used to have homework for our staff to think of all the plastics they had used that week and ask them to rethink how to proceed next week without them. As for cooking techniques, we only use what makes sense to us.

h: What dish from the Kin Dee menu would you recommend as a must-try for someone experiencing Thai flavours for the first time and why?

DK: All of them! Because Thai food is not a singular food. We do have dishes that you eat alone, but to experience what it is to be Thai, you have to have a proper Thai meal, which always comes with many kinds of dishes.

h: Which chefs do you admire or draw inspiration from in your culinary pursuits?

DK: All the Thai women and men, aunties and uncles who cook at the market, at home and in restaurants. Those who have been there before me and will continue to be a part of Thai cuisine after me. That is my inspiration.