Carolin Holzhuber isn’t just designing shoes – she’s sculpting dreams. Her avant-garde creations, often seen as walking pieces of art, challenge the limits of fashion with their surreal forms and rebellious spirit. In a world obsessed with mass production, Holzhuber’s artisanal approach stands out, creating footwear that’s not just worn but experienced.
h: Your pieces are often described as wearable sculptures. Do you consider yourself more of an artist than a designer, and how do you see these identities intersecting in your work?
Carolin Holzhuber: I have such a high admiration for art and artists, therefore I wouldn’t dare to call myself an artist but it is a compliment if others see me as an artist and my work as art.
I consider myself a designer and artisan. My aim is to create footwear that has a sculptural approach but still has a wearable function in a wider context. I prefer for the spectators to decide if they perceive my work as art or design. It is important to me that the pieces I create evoke emotions in people. No matter if they love it, hate it or are confused by it as long as they are not indifferent towards the piece I have reached my goal. That is perhaps where my design work could intersect with art, art is supposed to make you feel something, to generate strong emotions and to communicate ideas.
h: Your footwear designs are known for their surreal and sculptural qualities, often challenging the concepts of traditional shoe design. What drives your creative process?
CH: Life itself is a big drive for my creations. Each collection has a specific theme that can often be philosophical or even political. I like to question the status quo and want others to do the same when looking at my work. That is why certain details in my work are very important and they can only be discovered and understood when looking closely at the footwear pieces.
Sometimes my work also functions to me in a therapeutic way, usually, I have better ideas when I am in a sad or dark mood and try to overcome these feelings. I want to create something that reflects those feelings but at the same time also always gives hope to see the light within this darkness and at last conquer it.
Another drive is my inner urge to create. To use my brain and my hands and turn the raw materials into a shape that gives me a certain satisfaction. So the last thing I actually think about when designing a new collection is a shoe.
h: Your shoes are not just visually stunning; they are avant-garde feats of engineering. How do you approach the technical challenges of bringing such complex designs to life?
CH: The engineering part comes with a lot of testing, failures and learning by doing, to find the right materials and also the right balance, balance is key, as always in life. In the beginning, I did a lot of research about materials and discovered the material carbon fibre, usually often used in sports, for example, Formula 1. It was ideal to use a material so light and stable for the shoe soles. Most people are also surprised by how light and therefore comfortable my designs are compared to other platform shoes.
h: In a world dominated by mass production, your work stands out as fashion with personality. How important is it for you to maintain this artisanal approach in your work, and how do you think it impacts the way people perceive your designs?
CH: The artisanal approach is indeed a very important part of my work. I believe that something created with hands has a certain kind of character, almost comparable to having a soul. No mass-produced product can evoke this feeling. Also, every footwear piece from my collections is made to order, so the client knows that the pair of shoes they get is specifically made for her/him. This leads also to a totally different relationship between the owner and the product. Even more so if it is a custom-made design. Then the client can be certain it is the only piece that exists in this world. I think this is a very unique approach against our economy dominated by mass production and I am glad that clients from all around the world show interest in my niche products
H: In your opinion, what role do shoes play in statement fashion?
CH: A shoe can change the whole outfit not only in statement fashion. It changes your posture, how you walk and therefore even your mood. With statement fashion, you want to attract attention, express yourself and underline your character and without the right choice of shoes that underline your outfit that is supposed to underline your character, the ensemble is not complete. However, I do think that a statement pair of shoes can turn a simple black dress into a statement outfit. That is the power of accessories in fashion.
h: The fashion industry is in a state of constant evolution, with sustainability and technology playing increasingly significant roles. How do you see your work evolving in response to these trends, and what will always remain at the core of your creative vision?
CH: Don’t follow trends is always going to be the core of my creative vision. If I follow a trend it would mean my work is already too late, sort of behind. I understand the importance of sustainability and that we have to use the planet’s resources carefully. But it always has been a paradox to me when big companies promote, and advertise products as sustainable. Advertising means monetizing means economic growth. How can all this go hand in hand with consuming less and treating our resources respectfully?
In terms of technologies, I find it interesting to observe what is happening in the fashion industry but call me old-school, I prefer something created by hand over 3D-printed objects or AI-designed garments. The beauty in everything is a slight imperfection, if something is too perfect or too artificial, it loses its character.
h: Looking ahead, what new materials, technologies, or concepts are you excited to explore in your future collections? Is there a particular project or collaboration on the horizon that you’re especially passionate about?
CH: I love to work with the materials wood, metals and leather – so for me it is more about exploring new shapes or new patterns that reflect the idea behind the collections. That is where I want to push the boundaries of what a shoe can be. I also like to do experiments with the leather, for example creating a wrinkled texture by heating up the inside of the leather with fire.
Right now I am working on a new collection that will be released soon, so naturally I am excited about this project. But for everything else, I would rather keep to myself for now and invite everyone to follow my work to see and explore what happens next.
Photography courtesy of CAROLIN HOLZHUBER