Unconventionally Luxurious

Leila Roukni fuses luxury and shape rebellion in her brand Talel Paris; each of her handbags is a manifesto against conventionalism. Breaking away from the standards of the luxury market and balancing sharp design with practicality, she challenges traditional fashion and gender norms and stands as a beacon of innovative craftsmanship. 

hube: Has your background and experience in the industry influenced the unique design approach of Talel?

Leila Roukni: Yes, absolutely. We can say that there is a standardisation in the market, especially in luxury, because of a very safe business model and product strategy. Everyone is doing the same savoir-faire, the same product, the same design, and the same colour. I didn’t recognise myself in this and I wanted to propose something different. Now that I work for myself, I do things by desire, for pleasure and I do not make any compromises in the creative process! 

h: In your bio, you mention a focus on unconventional shapes and attention to detail. Can you elaborate on the design philosophy behind the brand? 

LR: The fashion world is divided in two, between the big luxury maisons — which are very powerful —  and the emergence of young designers supported by the same investment funds that finance luxury. The market is dominated by the biggest and it is very difficult to find a place, so I have decided to do what I wanted to do and to transgress the codes. The triangle is not a shape for a bag? I don’t care. I just want to do it! I like this idea of transgression, of designing ungrateful shapes that are difficult to wear. We want something different, something that doesn’t exist in the market yet.

h: How do you balance the sharp design of your bags with the practicality and functionality demanded by modern urban life?

LR: It is essential to create designs that are inclusive and functional, allowing everyone to feel comfortable and confident. I always try to take the actual needs of people into account, so each functional detail is carefully designed.  For example, almost all the Talel bags have an adjustable and removable strap to carry them by hand, on your shoulder, or as a crossbody. I also pay attention to designing interior pockets or spacious compartments to provide more storage space and improve the safety of users. The internal structure of the bag, the choice of the material (lamb leather, for example, is a good option for a light accessory and a soft, supple feel), or the choice of accessories such as zips are also thought through to be practical.

h: You mentioned that the desire for more freedom and creativity in your work led to the creation of Talel Paris. How does this freedom manifest in your designs?

LR: I try to design recognisable and unexpected shapes that other brands do not do. Proportions are not standard — I like to play with strange proportions, I like to surprise. There is no sense in developing a classic shape at Talel. The colour palette is also important in the design process and we can say that the colours are not commercial. There is this desire to stand out and go against what everyone else does.

h: Sustainability is a key aspect of Talel Paris. How do you integrate sustainable practices into both the design and production processes?

LR: Talel has always been committed to being an ethically engaged and eco-responsible business. Locally produced and made to last, we can define the brand as a slow fashion one. With our limited two collections per year that will never be on sale, Talel also ensures that there is equal treatment along the whole supply chain. The factory is given a compliance audit to evaluate factors like fair wages, reasonable hours, and their impact on the environment. By doing more with less, Talel aims to design luxurious bags at an accessible price point.

h: What challenges and rewards have you experienced in pursuing sustainability in the luxury fashion industry?

LR: The big challenge is to find a raw and eco-responsible material in the market. This is very complicated. We are in the beginning stage of our research, in our embryonic step and it is difficult to find the right partners. I would say that rewards are when I have visibility on the whole product, end to end. Traceability on everything is extremely important to me, even if we are not eco-friendly at 100% on all the production lines. Transforming a material is an action that requires energy and has an impact on the environment. We are aware of this but it is identified and measured, which is a good step already. I’m also very proud to still be there after 4 years as it is a big challenge to survive the 3 first years to acquire certain credibility. I’m also proud to see that exclusive people such as Beyoncé have worn the bags many times without any partnership or help in the industry.

h: Your designs are unisex, how do you approach creating pieces that are versatile and appealing to a wider audience?

LR: I like designing accessories for people regardless of sex or gender.  I think that unisex fashion allows customers a new way of expressing their identity. I personally always buy from the men’s section! What helps a lot is working with a diverse team and gathering input from various perspectives. This ensures that the designs resonate with a broader audience. The colour palette is also very important in the design process of Talel. While any colour can be genderless, it’s often helpful to start with a neutral palette like blacks, whites, greys, and beige and then branch out to more vibrant colours as per the theme or mood of the collection.

h: What is next for Talel Paris, can you share something you are especially excited about?

LR: I currently work to diversify my offer by developing the product category. Talel is definitely more than just an accessory brand! Stay tuned!