Fluid Fashion

hube: How does SITUATIONIST approach the intersection of innovative designs and breaking gender norms in its creations? Could you share specific examples that illustrate this unique perspective?

SITUATIONIST: SITUATIONIST pieces are gender-fluid and based on everyday observation of different people and identities. Innovative designs and attention to detail are at the centre of our approach to garments. The creation process defines the identity of the clothes we produce. Gender is rendered inconspicuous during this process, with all attention focused on the garment itself. Our creations are crafted for anyone who cherishes the values we share: authenticity, identity, social activism, and the celebration of heritage.

h: Grounded in Tbilisi, how does SITUATIONIST draw inspiration from the richness of Georgian culture and history, and in what ways does this cultural influence contribute to the brand’s visionary outlook on the future of fashion?

S: Our collections are deeply rooted in Georgian culture and heritage. While sometimes still unknown to the public, our aim is to work with and around this heritage, adapting it in a contemporary way. This is translated into subtle and hidden details. For example, in our SS24 collection, you can find different references to tulips. This key element in the collection symbolises Georgian resistance against Russia and memories of the Tbilisi Massacre on April 9th 1989. The SS24 collection also showcases jewellery inspired by hammered Chekanka (editor’s note: coining) female figures, commonly used as interior decor in many Soviet Georgian households. I advocate for a greater incorporation of cultural heritage and its contemporary reinterpretation in our signature pieces. I believe this also has the potential to pave the way for the emergence of new professions in the future.

h: With the world evolving, sustainability is becoming a key factor in the fashion industry. How does SITUATIONIST integrate sustainable practices into its design and production processes, and how does the brand envision the role of ethical fashion in the future?

S: I hope many brands will adopt more impactful measures to move towards a sustainable ethical future. What we do from our side is that all our production is done in-house, covering both sample and order manufacturing. Each item is crafted by hand, with the same seamstress overseeing the process. A dedicated label featuring the signature of the seamstress who created the garment can be found inside each of our clothes. We mostly source our fabrics from Italian dead stock, which allows us to work with high-quality materials without overconsumption. Additionally, we pay close attention to placing patterns on the fabric to minimise waste as much as possible. Each garment is usually cut one after the other. 

h: Fashion is a form of art. How do you view the artistic evolution of SITUATIONIST’s designs over time, and what role does artistic expression play in the brand’s creative journey?

S: Since the inception of the brand, we’ve consistently aimed to create a synergy between art and fashion across our collections. For our debut presentation in the Paris Fashion Week calendar, we collaborated with Giorgi Geladze, a talented young Georgian artist known for his unique text paintings on cardboard and clothing pieces from our collection.

Founding SITUATIONIST at a young age has been a journey of growth and evolving tastes, both for me personally and for the brand. This evolution is deeply rooted in experience. I am always driven to explore, travel, and learn, believing that these ongoing discoveries shape me as a designer and influence my inspiration from season to season. Interacting with individuals from diverse cultures and backgrounds and observing people significantly contribute to my creative process.

h: Through the SS2024 collection and beyond, SITUATIONIST consistently challenges various societal norms, notably those associated with gender-specific clothes. Could you elaborate on how the brand actively engages with its community and strives to make a positive social impact through its designs, especially concerning gender inclusivity? 

S: Since the start, we always tried to actively challenge gender norms in our designs. We promote inclusivity by creating gender-fluid clothing, empowering individuals to express their identities authentically. We also believe that our clothes should be chosen for their quality and interesting design, not necessarily for the eventual gender associated with it. During castings, it is always important for us to feature models representing various gender identities, also to challenge traditional beauty standards. The brand advocates for gender inclusivity within and beyond the fashion industry, fostering positive social change. This applies especially in Georgia, where it has not been so long since these questions started being asked due to the strong religious beliefs that still prevail. This is why shows in Tbilisi are particularly interesting for us. For example, at SS23 pre-collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi, we used symbols that are relevant to the queer community, such as sulfur baths, a location of immense historical significance, where our Georgian ancestors would often come to express their love and affection amidst the warm, comforting steam and the scent of sulfur. 

h: With rapid technological advancements, how does SITUATIONIST see the integration of technology in its future designs? Do you have any ideas on how the use of technology might influence the brand’s creative process?

S: While I appreciate technological advances and support education in that realm, I personally thrive in the hands-on approach. As a pattern maker at SITUATIONIST, I find value in cutting and shaping by hand. While I acknowledge the potential of technology, the unique significance of handmade craftsmanship remains integral to my creative process.

h: Collaborations can bring fresh perspectives, like a co-project you brought to life together with MONETIFORME. What other artists, technologists, or other industries would you be interested in collaborating with to push the boundaries of fashion?

S: Collaborations are always a great way to open a dialogue with different fields. Monetiforme is a young jewellery brand that works with old coins and artefacts. For our AW22/23 collection, we collaborated to create sets of bracelets, necklaces, and rings featuring replicas of Georgian antique coins. We have previously collaborated with many young Georgian artists and maintained a longstanding collaboration with the techno club Bassiani based in Tbilisi. 

Looking ahead, I believe we would like to focus on collaborations with the art world, as it is a field that particularly interests me. I am also deeply moved by the current global political landscape. I am eager to collaborate with international and grassroots organisations striving to create positive change in the world, standing in solidarity with those facing oppression. I also have a keen interest in aeronautics and space research and would like to explore the integration of upcoming materials from these fields into the fashion industry. Furthermore, I am passionate about collaborating with folk artists to bring unique perspectives and influences into my work.

h: How does SITUATIONIST envision participating in or influencing the global fashion scene while maintaining its unique identity rooted in Tbilisi, and what kind of cultural and societal exchange does the brand hope to bring to life?

S: Since the creation of the brand in 2017, one of our main purposes has been to highlight and share Georgian culture and vision on the international stage, creating a distinct Georgian niche while showcasing our collections in global fashion weeks. In each collection, subtle details evoke Georgian heritage, history, and traditional clothing. I genuinely hope that people discover and appreciate Georgian culture through these references, embracing the contemporary approach to our collections. Georgia inspires me, and I believe that it has endless potential in this realm. 

h: In what ways does SITUATIONIST empower its customers through fashion as a form of expression, particularly in rejecting conservatism? How does the brand stay attuned to evolving societal demands, adapting its approach for a conscious and forward-thinking audience?

S: Beyond prioritising style in our designs, our goal is to foster diversity in each collection, allowing a wide range of individuals to identify with our creations. I appreciate engaging with customers, especially when handling private orders, as it allows for an exchange of views and ensures their preferences are well understood.

Our production and creation methods question our way of consuming. We put the name of each seamstress on the clothes we sell, and it serves as a reminder that the garments we wear all have been sewn by someone real, sometimes under questionable conditions.