Our conversation begins with Christelle Kocher’s most recent project, Levi’s® by Christelle Kocher, presented during Paris Haute Couture Week. The capsule collection bridges New York and Paris, denim and savoir-faire. Kocher is also the artistic director of Lemarié, Parisian savoir-faire specialists, and the creative director of her label, KOCHÉ.
She muses on dualities: cotton and feathers, delicacy and ruggedness, opulence and functionality. By bringing together denim and couture embroidery, Kocher invites us to see the union of opposites as an opportunity for personal growth, new perspectives and technological innovation. Kocher finds unity through craftsmanship and heritage, insisting that the handmade lies at the heart of community, authenticity and connection. She foregrounds the individual experience: what it feels like to make a garment, wear a garment and become yourself through clothing.
hube: Your Levi’s® by Christelle Kocher capsule collection, presented during Paris Haute Couture Week, brought together two seemingly opposite worlds: American denim and French savoir-faire. Beyond the contrast between these two languages, what unexpected similarities did you discover during the creative process?
Christelle Kocher: People often describe them as opposites, but I haven’t experienced them that way. Both Levi’s and French savoir-faire are built on authenticity. One has its origins in workwear and functionality; the other in couture. Yet both are rooted in exceptional craftsmanship, precision and a profound respect for making.
What fascinated me was how naturally these worlds speak to one another. The iconic 501® and Trucker Jacket are already extraordinarily constructed. Rather than changing their identity, I wanted to reveal another dimension through embroidery, feather-work, Maison Lemarié’s Lognon pleating and other artisanal techniques.
The black gown first revealed at the Cannes Film Festival is a great example. We transformed the black stretch denim by adding a bespoke iridescent coating. We also laser-cut thousands of scale-like pieces and embellished the surface by hand with six different colours of feathers. The garment almost stopped looking like denim, yet it never lost its identity. I love that balance between familiarity and surprise.
h: You divide your time between Paris and New York, two cities with very different relationships to fashion, craftsmanship and everyday style. How have these environments shaped the way you think about clothing?
CK: I divide my time between Paris and New York, but also between Maison Lemarié and KOCHÉ. Both cities and creative worlds constantly nourish each other.
Paris keeps me deeply connected to craftsmanship and history. New York reminds me to stay open and connected to the energy of everyday life. I see the same dialogue between French savoir-faire and Levi’s. One carries generations of knowledge; the other is one of the strongest cultural symbols in fashion. They don’t compete; they enrich one another.
I’ve never considered heritage and innovation to be opposites. Their encounter is often where the most unexpected ideas emerge.
