Robert Mercier, a leather enchanter and a master of handmade craftsmanship, delves into the insights of his work and the collaboration for John Galliano’s Maison Margiela’s Artisanal ’24 show.
hube: Over your 30 years of working with leather, how have you seen the demand for handmade and authentic pieces evolve in the fashion industry?
Robert Mercier: Over the past 30 years, a lot has become different. The demand for bags, for example, is not as strong anymore. When I started, companies recruited very few people, but then things changed. In the ’90s, brands were creative with their pieces, and we were able to see incredible things through their magnificent parades. There was a quality know-how, and artistic people who wanted to express themselves and listen to each other.
People tend to say that the rise of hand craftsmanship began during COVID but I think it started a bit earlier. Personally, I think fashion houses were no longer creative and could no longer surprise us with novelty because they wanted to save money. Nothing will be done by hand anymore, they thought. Fortunately, many artists in France are stubborn and have kept handmade craftsmanship afloat.
People look for authenticity, and that’s why big fashion houses now employ small artisans like me and why they buy small businesses.
h: The process of manufacturing the leather pieces involves keeping certain techniques secret. Could you elaborate on how you balance the desire to maintain these secrets while still sharing the artistry behind your work?
RM: I never liked showing the manufacturing process. I know that in our time, people like to know everything, but I find that it destroys the magic of creating. I like it when people say to me, ‘But how does she fit into the dress?’ or also ‘But how is that possible?’. This is proof that I did my job well. I make objects to spark dreams and astonishment; I don’t do tutorials! But I understand the idea of studio secrecy. That’s why I made the effort to post some photos. To be honest, when I’m absorbed in my work, I don’t think about taking photos.