Fluidity and sensuality 

Niccolò Pasqualetti, a Tuscany-born Paris-based designer, talks about his journey since the launch of his eponymous brand in 2021. From the inspirations drawn from personal experiences to the seamless blend of fiction and reality, Pasqualetti shares insights into the ethos that defines his brand. Join us as we explore the intersection of art and fashion, sustainability woven into design, and a sneak peek into the upcoming collection coming live on Paris Fashion Week on the 27th of February. This season coincides with Niccolò Pasqualetti’s nomination for the 2024 edition of the LVMH Prize and promises a fusion of constructed and deconstructed elements.

hube: How has your design style evolved since launching your eponymous brand in 2021, and how do you see it progressing in the future?

Niccolò Pasqualetti: I believe my design has been responsive to the present moment. It’s always evolving, becoming more introspective over time. I try to look within myself. For instance, in the most recent collection, SS24, the inspiration came from spending time in hospitals for family reasons. This created a pristine atmosphere in the show and the clothes themselves. Only by being personal and having a vision that reflects your reality can you create something universal, unique, and new. Thinking about the past and the future is essential, but taking things step by step every day is crucial.

We keep changing, and our styles evolve. I cannot say I’m the same as I was a year ago, and I won’t be the same in a year. What we aim to achieve with the brand is to have something timeless, recognisable, and rooted in personal experience.

h: The motto of your work is “the fluidity of stone and the sensuality of water”. Could you elaborate on this vision and how it adds to the overall aesthetic and identity of your brand?

NP: These words express opposite elements coming together, acquiring qualities from each other. It’s about mixing geometric and organic, masculine and feminine, and finding beauty in between. The idea is that things don’t have to make sense immediately, but they make logical sense and hold truth over time. The inspiration comes from organic sculptures, like those of Jean Arp and Hepworth, blending shapes and fluidity.

h: Your designs seamlessly blend fantasy with wearable, everyday pieces. How do you strike a balance between creating pieces that are both artistic and functional for everyday use?

NP: The inspiration comes from real-world complexities and memories, blending everyday life with moments of fantasy. The goal is to create pieces that are grounded in reality yet have a touch of surrealism, making them easy to integrate into everyday life. It’s a process of translating real-world inspiration into a blend of real and surreal elements, ensuring that the pieces remain functional while being artistic.

h: From metallic pink leather to upcycled denim, your collections feature a diverse range of materials. How do you decide on materials for each collection, and what role does experimentation play in your design choices?

NP: The material selection is spontaneous, mixing traditional fabrics like wool and cotton with experimental ones like metallic leathers and upcycled materials. It aligns with the theme of opposite elements coming together, creating a collage of different textures and qualities.

h: How do you approach sustainability in your design process, and what role do recycled materials play in shaping your brand’s identity?

NP: We use upcycled fabrics, mainly from couture houses, ensuring high quality and longevity. Sustainability is not an afterthought but integrated from the beginning, combining traditional craftsmanship with new ways of experimenting.

h: Your experience in crafting distinctive jewellery pieces is intriguing. How has your role as a jewellery artist shaped your perspective on the intersection of fashion and art?

NP: My first collection was actually a jewellery collection. Crafting jewellery requires attention to many aspects, integrating an object with the body. It inspired shapes and curves, influencing the overall vision for collections.

h: Exploring potential collaborations can bring exciting possibilities. Are there any specific brands, designers, or creative minds you see yourself collaborating with in the future? What would be your dream collaboration? 

NP: I’d love to collaborate with product and furniture designers, especially those inspired by 20th-century design like Rietveld and Cassina. It’s about merging different fields and creating something unique.

h: What captivating details could you share about the upcoming collection you’re working on? What words would you use to describe it?

NP: There will be a strong focus on details. Emphasis will be placed on silhouette and shading, maintaining a foundational wardrobe concept. While certain fabrics may express the essence of the seasons, you can expect to encounter pieces that blend various elements and emotions. I would say the best words I can use to describe the collection are the following: constructed, deconstructed, evening, and day.

h: Looking ahead, what is your vision for the future of your brand? How do you see the Niccolò Pasqualetti label evolving, and are there particular themes or design elements you’re eager to explore in upcoming collections?

NP: Each collection is a new proposal, allowing people the freedom to explore and pick what resonates with them. I want to keep exploring traditional elements and craftsmanship while finding new ways to experiment. Changing perceptions of craft and traditional techniques is essential, making them meaningful for today.